Tulum: beach-town life among cenotes and ruins

Only partly. The terrain is flat, which helps, but sidewalks are uneven and often disappear outside the center, and newer developments have sandy or unpaved streets. There is no accessible public transit, so taxis or a private car do the work, and the beach zone and cenotes are hardest to reach.

Not strictly, but it helps more than in most Mexican expat towns. The center is flat and bikeable, colectivo vans cover the highway to Playa del Carmen, and taxis fill the gaps. But there's no formal city transit, and cenotes, ruins, and big-box shopping sit outside biking range, so many residents eventually buy a car.

Hot and humid year-round, with an annual average of about 79°F (26°C) and roughly 46 inches (1,158 mm) of rain a year, most of it falling from late spring through fall. There is no winter to speak of. Hurricane season runs June through November, and sargassum can pile up on beaches in the warmer months.

Yes, and many Americans do, usually on a temporary resident visa that converts to permanent residency after four years. You qualify on either income or savings rather than both, and the income bar is higher than most retirees expect, so many use the savings route. Complex medical care means a trip to Playa del Carmen or Cancún.

Americans can stay as visitors up to 180 days per entry at immigration's discretion, which is how many people test the town first. To live there long term, apply for a temporary resident visa at a Mexican consulate in the U.S. by showing income or savings, then finish the process in Mexico. Most people arrive with a short-term rental booked and find a lease locally.

Budget about $2,100 a month for a single person, around $2,900 for a couple, and roughly $4,200 for a family. A one-bedroom averages about $1,000 in the center and around $650 outside it. An inexpensive restaurant meal is about $9, and internet about $25 a month.

Tulum scores 50 on the safety index, a middle-of-the-road result. The State Department puts Quintana Roo at Level 2, exercise increased caution, and notes that shootings between rival gangs have injured and killed bystanders. It advises paying attention after dark and staying on well-lit streets and in tourist zones. Most crime affecting foreigners is theft.

Tulum has a private hospital with 24-hour emergency care, along with clinics and pharmacies, but specialist depth is limited. Residents go to the larger private hospitals in Playa del Carmen or Cancún for anything complex. U.S. Medicare does not pay for care in Mexico, and most hospitals will not bill an American insurer.