Amman: cafes, Roman ruins, and steep stone hills in Jordan's capital
An affordable, sunny city of about 4 million, if you can plan around a Level 3 travel advisory and the lack of a retirement visa.
- 4,007,526
- Population (2015)
- $1,200/mo
- Monthly budget · single
- 65°F / 18°C
- Avg temperature
One person in Amman spends about $1,200 a month in U.S. dollars, with a typical range of $1,000 to $1,400. A couple runs about $2,000 and a family of four about $3,200. A one-bedroom in the center averages around $600 a month, about $400 farther out, and a simple meal out is about $6. Those are 2026 figures, and since the dinar is pegged to the dollar, they don't swing with exchange rates.
The city sits on steep hills at about 2,500 feet, so July nights average near 68°F even when afternoons push past 90°F. Newcomers mostly settle in west Amman: Jabal Amman and Weibdeh for stone houses and cafes, Abdoun and Sweifieh for newer buildings with elevators and parking, Dabouq and Khalda for more room.
Amman works best for people with a reason to be in the region: an NGO or embassy job, a year of Arabic, a Jordanian spouse. It's harder for retirees and remote workers, since Jordan has no visa built for either, and the State Department rates the country Level 3, Reconsider Travel.
Reviewed and updated October 8, 2026 · 4 min read
At a glance
$1,200
Monthly budget · single person
$600/mo 1-bed rent, center
58/100
Safety index
$30
Internet / month
65°Fannual average
Jan 47° · Aug 80°
Climate
4,007,526
Population (2015)
Expatsi estimates, updated Oct 2026, based on rental listings, government statistics, and local reporting.
Cost of living
What it costs to live in Amman
Single person
$1,000–$1,400/mo
about 60% below Austin, TX
Couple
$1,600–$2,400/mo
about 55% below Austin, TX
Family of four
$2,500–$3,900/mo
about 60% below Austin, TX
Compared with Austin, TX (Expatsi estimate, 2026).
- $6 −70%
- Inexpensive meal
- $500–$700/mo −69%
- 1-bed rent, center
- $350–$450/mo −70%
- 1-bed rent, outside
- $30/mo −54%
- Internet
- $35/mo −15%
- Transit pass
- $139/sq ft −79%
- Buy price, center
Expatsi estimates, updated Oct 2026, based on rental listings, government statistics, and local reporting.
Daily life
How Amman lives
- B- grade, 35th percentile among the cities we track
- Dining & caféstypical
- B grade, 51st percentile among the cities we track
- Arts & culturetypical
- C grade, 14th percentile among the cities we track
- Parks & outdoorsmodest
- B- grade, 34th percentile among the cities we track
- Schools & educationtypical
- B- grade, 37th percentile among the cities we track
- Healthcare accesstypical
- C- grade, 0th percentile among the cities we track
- Bike infrastructuremodest
- C+ grade, 18th percentile among the cities we track
- Public transitmodest
- C+ grade, challenging physical accessibility
- Accessibilitychallenging
Graded on OpenStreetMap amenity density relative to the 298 cities we track. Accessibility is the exception: it's graded against a fixed standard (terrain steepness and sidewalk surfaces), not a curve.
Climate
Weather through the year
Annual average 65°F (18°C) · 11 in of rain a year · Source: Open-Meteo Historical Weather API (temps: ERA5-Land 0.1°; precip/sunshine: ERA5 best-match; 1991-2020 normals); precipitation: Meteostat station 40270 normals 1981-2010
On the ground
Scenes from Amman
Getting around
Transport in Amman
Most newcomers get around by app and taxi. Careem covers the city and takes cash or a card. Yellow taxis will run the meter if you ask (the phrase is "il adad"). Drivers go by landmarks and the city's numbered traffic circles rather than street addresses, so keep a map pin ready to share. White service taxis follow fixed routes and pick up riders along the way; they cost less but take some learning. Budget about $35 a month if you live on taxis and buses.
The Bus Rapid Transit is the newest option. Its first route opened in July 2021, running from Sweileh in the northwest to Ras Al-Ain by downtown, and a second runs from Sweileh to the Mahatta terminal in the east, meeting the first at Sports City. A separate BRT service has linked Amman and Zarqa since May 2024. Worth knowing: U.S. Embassy staff aren't allowed on public buses, for safety reasons.
Walking works inside a neighborhood like Weibdeh, but hills and long stairways make crossing the city on foot hard work. If you settle out west in Dabouq or Khalda, a car makes life easier. Drivers need a Jordanian license or a U.S. license plus an International Driving Permit, and the State Department calls summer driving in Amman risky. Queen Alia Airport is about 30 minutes out by taxi.
- 2.6/sq mi
- Transit stops
- 0.0/sq mi
- Bike infrastructure
- 2.4/sq mi
- Wheelchair-accessible places
Mapped features per square mile from OpenStreetMap.
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Community
Community & practical notes
Community: Many of Amman's foreign residents came for a job with an international organization, NGO, or embassy, or to study Arabic, so social life tends to run through work or class. Weibdeh and Jabal Amman carry the cafe and gallery scene; Abdoun and Dabouq feel more suburban. It's a conservative society, and dressing modestly outside west Amman saves you attention.
Healthcare: Jordan's specialist care is concentrated here. The King Hussein Cancer Center is in Amman, and Jordan Hospital and Medical Center is known for cardiac care. Foreigners pay for treatment, often upfront, and U.S. plans won't pay, so arrange international health coverage before you land.
Remote work: Home internet runs about $30 a month. Bldr Space, near Paris Circle in Weibdeh, has 24-hour access, meeting rooms, and dedicated desks listed at JOD 110 to 135 a month (about $155 to $190). Jordan stays on UTC+3 all year, seven to eight hours ahead of Eastern, by season, which makes U.S. business hours a late-night job.
Schools: Amman has attracted fewer big international school brands than Dubai or Doha, according to the Good Schools Guide, and some expat families board their kids abroad. Visit in person and confirm curriculum and accreditation with each school.
Safety: The August 2026 advisory covers all of Jordan, citing terrorism and armed conflict. Amman itself isn't on the Do Not Travel list, though Rusayfah and the Baqa'a neighborhood of Ayn Basha are. Watch for pickpockets in the crowded downtown lanes, and expect flooding with the first rain of the season.
Limited mobility: Hard. Amman is steep, and many streets connect by stairs. The Citadel has ramps, but they're steep enough that a manual wheelchair user may need help. The Jordan Archaeological Museum has a long flight of stairs and no wheelchair entrance. The BRT runs low-floor buses. Look for a building with an elevator and level street access before you sign.
Retirement: Mild, sunny springs and falls appeal, but Jordan has no retirement visa. Retirees who make it work use the five-year visa sold to U.S. citizens, which allows stays of up to 90 days after police registration, or residency through a bank deposit or buying property. Compare other countries on our retirement visa page, and see the full picture in our Jordan guide.
Housing
Renting and buying
- 1-bed rent (center)
- $500–$700/mo
- 1-bed rent (outside center)
- $350–$450/mo
- Buy price (center)
- $139/sq ft
- Buy price (outside center)
- $84/sq ft
Expatsi estimates, based on rental listings, government statistics, and local reporting.
Good to know
Frequently asked questions
How much is rent in Amman?
A one-bedroom apartment in central Amman rents for about $500 to $700 a month as of 2026, and $350 to $450 outside the center. Newer west Amman buildings with elevators and parking sit at the top of the range or above it. Get a written lease: anyone staying longer than two weeks has to register their address with the police.
What is the weather like in Amman?
Amman is dry and sunny. July and August average highs near 92°F, and June through September see almost no rain. Winters are cool: January highs average about 55°F and lows about 40°F. Most of the city's roughly 11 inches of yearly rain falls between November and March.
Do you need a car in Amman?
Not if you live in a central neighborhood. Careem, metered yellow taxis, and the Bus Rapid Transit cover most daily trips. A car helps in outer west Amman suburbs such as Dabouq. To drive, you need a Jordanian license or a U.S. license with an International Driving Permit.
Where do Americans live in Amman?
Most foreigners live in west Amman. Jabal Amman and Weibdeh have older stone houses and cafes, Abdoun and Sweifieh have newer apartment buildings with elevators and parking, and Dabouq and Khalda offer more space for families.
How much does it cost to live in Amman, Jordan?
As of 2026, one person in Amman typically spends $1,000 to $1,400 a month in U.S. dollars, and a couple $1,600 to $2,400. A family of four lands between $2,500 and $3,900. Jordan's dinar is pegged to the U.S. dollar, so a budget set in dollars holds steady.
Is Amman safe for Americans?
As of August 29, 2026, the State Department rates Jordan Level 3, Reconsider Travel, citing terrorism and armed conflict. Amman is not on its Do Not Travel list, but Rusayfah, the Baqa'a neighborhood of Ayn Basha, the Syria and Iraq border area, and the refugee camps are. Pickpockets target foreigners in downtown's crowded streets. Enroll in the State Department's STEP program before you go.
Is healthcare good in Amman?
Amman has Jordan's main specialist hospitals, including the King Hussein Cancer Center and Jordan Hospital and Medical Center. Foreigners pay for care, often upfront, even at public facilities, and U.S. insurance won't cover it, so expats carry international health insurance.
Can Americans retire in Amman?
Yes, but Jordan has no retirement visa. Americans can buy a five-year multiple-entry visa for 110 JOD (about $155) and stay up to 90 days at a time after registering with the police. Longer-term residency comes through a bank deposit or a property purchase, and the rules change often, so check with a Jordanian lawyer before moving money.
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