Living in Riga: Art Nouveau streets, long Baltic winters, and about $1,800 a month

The expat scene: Don't expect a big American community. Most newcomers build a circle through work, coworking spaces, language classes and neighbors. Weekends often start at the Central Market, built between 1924 and 1930, whose pavilion roofs reuse metal frames from old German zeppelin hangars.

Healthcare: The U.S. State Department says many, but not all, Latvian hospitals and doctors accept U.S. health insurance, that public clinics lack basic resources and supplies, and that medical staff may speak little or no English. Plan on a private international policy and an English-speaking clinic you've checked out ahead of time. ExpatInsure can set up coverage, and healthcare coach Hunter Schultz can help you plan care for any conditions you're bringing with you.

Remote work and internet: Home internet runs about $20 a month. Riga works best for people whose income comes from outside Latvia; our Latvia moving guide covers the visa routes in.

Schools: The International School of Riga is a private IB school offering the Primary Years, Middle Years and Diploma programs, taught in English (the Middle Years program also uses Latvian).

LGBTQ expats: Since July 1, 2024, two adults of the same or different sexes can register a partnership with a notary in Latvia. It gives partners some rights, such as making medical decisions for each other, but it isn't marriage. The State Department notes there are no legal restrictions on same-sex relationships, but that lesbian and gay people face widespread intolerance and discrimination, and harassment of same-sex partners has occurred. Expect a more reserved climate than in most big U.S. cities.

Black Americans: We couldn't find solid, recent reporting on Black Americans' day-to-day experience in Riga. The State Department notes that harassment of foreigners has occurred in Latvia. Before committing, visit in both summer and winter, and talk with Black expats already living here.

Limited mobility: The newer center is manageable; the Old Town is hard. A wheelchair-travel guide found that many cobbled Old Town streets lack sidewalks, and the ones that exist are often narrow with no curb ramps, while most modern sidewalks are fairly smooth and major intersections in tourist areas have ramps. Elevators at underground crossings don't always work. The State Department adds that most buildings aren't accessible yet and that easily accessible transit and taxis are rare. Check any apartment's elevator and your daily routes in person.

Retirement: Riga fits retirees who want hospitals, concerts and a market within reach without a car, and who can handle dark winters, with average highs near freezing from December through February. A couple's budget runs about $2,800 a month. Our retirement visa guide and Latvia moving guide cover the routes and income rules.